Ilhéus, Bahia – Two Unforgettable Weeks in the Heart of Brazil
- Mirco Röthlisberger
- 11. Apr.
- 6 Min. Lesezeit
There are places you visit – and places that touch you. Ilhéus in Bahia definitely falls into the latter category for me. For two weeks, I had the chance to immerse myself in this fascinating part of Brazil – full of colors, music, history, and, of course, endless sunshine. If you're looking for the real Brazil, far away from crowded tourist paths, Ilhéus is a place you'll love.
Journey with a Stopover in São Paulo
The journey began in Zurich with a night flight to São Paulo. The flight with Swiss took around nine hours in Economy Class – friendly service, but a somewhat spartan seating experience. For those like me who find it hard to sleep on planes, it’s worth planning a stop at the airport. Fortunately, São Paulo Airport (GRU) is well equipped: numerous restaurants, souvenir shops, and even sleep pods make waiting more pleasant.
After a quick snack to recharge, I continued my journey with GOL toward Ilhéus. The domestic flight takes about three hours and brings you directly to the coast of Bahia, where the small but freshly renovated Ilhéus airport awaits with typical Bahian warmth. Aeroporto Jorge Amado welcomes travelers with a touch of tropical charm. As soon as I arrived, I was greeted by taxis, Uber drivers, and the tropical climate. I had finally arrived.
A Culinary Welcome at Sabor do Pão Delicatessen
On the same day, I headed to my first culinary destination: Sabor do Pão Delicatessen. Freshly baked Salgadinhos, accompanied by an ice-cold fruit juice – it was the perfect introduction to the coming days. I love diving straight into a place’s everyday cuisine when I travel. Here, in this small bakery, my Ilhéus adventure began.
Staying Right by the Sea
My accommodation was located right on the beach, nestled between tropical greenery and modern condominiums with controlled access – safe, peaceful, and ideal for restful nights. The reception was friendly and always helpful, and it was immediately clear: hospitality is truly valued here.
The hotel had everything needed for a relaxing vacation. A well-maintained pool with music and a bar invited me to linger, children could enjoy the activities, and for those interested, there was even an in-house hairdresser or gym. A small highlight was the tropical restaurant: every morning a new breakfast buffet, and regional specialties served at lunch and dinner – fresh and creatively prepared. The room was simple but clean and maintained daily – although the air conditioning could have been a bit stronger.
For a more luxurious experience, I recommend Hotel Jardim Atlântico or Transamerica, both right by the sea and perfect for a relaxed stay.
Experiencing the City: Colonial Charm and Cultural Treasures
Ilhéus is a city with history – and you can feel it at every step. The old town is characterized by colorful colonial-style buildings, including the famous house of Jorge Amado, one of Brazil's most renowned writers. A walk through the historic streets feels like a small time travel.
I was particularly impressed by the Casa de Cultura Jorge Amado,
where you can learn more about the life and work of this literary giant. Anyone interested in the city’s history should also visit the Palácio do Paranaguá – a beautiful building with a rich history. The Catedral de São Sebastião and Igreja de São Jorge are also remarkable cultural highlights that reflect the city’s history and faith.
The city pulses with life, but in a pleasant, relaxed way. Music can be heard everywhere, colorful street art is visible, and the scent of fried delicacies fills the air. If you want to get around, Uber is the best choice – affordable, safe, and convenient. Taxis are reliable but a bit pricier. The buses are an adventure in themselves: chaotic but charming – and they come with a Cobrador, who collects the fare.
Dining Out in Ilhéus – Something for Every Taste
Ilhéus offers a lot for food lovers. One standout restaurant was "Marostica" – a romantic Italian spot with a view of the bay, run by an Italian with great attention to detail. For something more casual, head to "Psiu" – a place for Brazilian home cooking in a family atmosphere. "Navegantes" is also worth a visit – a more upscale option with a great view – as well as the popular Kilo restaurant "Sabor do Sul," perfect for a quick bite. However, I was somewhat disappointed by the overcrowded "Vesuvio": great location but long waiting times and average food.
A special culinary highlight in Ilhéus is the Chocolate Caseiro Ilhéus, a paradise for chocolate lovers. Here, chocolate is still made in the traditional way, and you can try local specialties like chocolate with cocoa or Cupuaçu – an unforgettable experience.
Beaches & Nature: The Real Paradise is Right Outside
What makes Ilhéus so special are its beaches – each one a small paradise in its own right. At Praia dos Milionários, you feel like you're in a postcard cliché: fine white sand, turquoise water, and palm trees swaying in the wind. For action, head to Praia do Sul – popular with surfers and perfect for long walks. Praia da Avenida is more urban, lively, with many food stalls and a promenade – ideal for people-watching. My personal favorite for a quiet day with family was Praia da Concha – warm water, little surf, simply beautiful.
And Ilhéus offers much more nature off the coast: the Lagoa Encantada, a mysterious natural lake, takes you to another world. In the Reserva Biológica do Una, you can spot sloths, monkeys, and colorful birds if you're lucky. A highlight for chocolate fans is the Fazenda Yrerê – a historic cocoa plantation with an interesting tour and delicious tastings.
If you want to explore more of the region, Ilhéus is the perfect base for wonderful excursions, such as to Itacaré – a dream destination for nature lovers and beach enthusiasts. A visit to Morro de São Paulo is also worth it, or a boat tour through the Baía de Camamu, surrounded by beautiful nature and small islands. Marau, a small town with untouched beaches, is also gorgeous and less known. For more paradise beaches, Barra Grande, Valença, Boipeba, and Canavieiras are perfect.
Culture, History & the Legacy of Cocoa
Ilhéus is not only beautiful but also rich in history. Founded in 1534, the city became the center of Brazil's cocoa boom in the 20th century. Back then, the so-called "Coroneis" – large landowners – controlled the economy and social life. Traces of this era can still be found today in villas, museums, and of course, in the literature of Jorge Amado, whose works portray the contradictions of life during that time.
I was particularly impressed by the Fazenda Yrerê, where you can learn about cocoa cultivation and processing. A tour of the plantation is not only educational but also a delicious journey for your taste buds when you sample the fresh chocolate.
The cultural mix is unique: African, indigenous, and Portuguese influences shape the music, language, cuisine – and especially the people. The warmth with which you are greeted here stays in your heart.
Practical Tips for Your Stay in Ilhéus, BA
For those seeking a more personalized experience, I recommend Luktravel – they offer tailored tours around Ilhéus and its surroundings. This way, you can experience not only the big highlights of the region but also more remote, less touristy corners.
For those traveling by public transport, you can buy bus tickets and exchange money at Encantur in downtown Ilhéus – handy for stocking up on cash for excursions to places like Arraial d'Ajuda or Morro de São Paulo. A key recommendation: try not to carry too much cash and instead use your credit card to save on fees and stay safer.
Bahian Specialties You Have to Try
Culinarily, Bahia is a feast for the senses. Particularly the classics like Acarajé – a fried bean ball stuffed with shrimp and spicy seasoning – or Moqueca, Vatapá, and Caruru are real flavor explosions. Local bakeries also offer delicious cakes and pastries, often enhanced with coconut, cashew, or cocoa. Also intriguing: the many beauty products for curly and Afro-Brazilian hair – from creams to natural oils, everything is available.
My Conclusion: Ilhéus is More Than Just a Vacation Destination
Ilhéus surprised, touched, and enchanted me. It's not a place for mass tourism or luxury vacations – but for those seeking authenticity. For travelers who want to let themselves go, enjoy life, and dive deeper into the Brazilian soul.
With its beaches, music, cuisine, and stories, Ilhéus stays in your memory for a long time. If you want, you can continue your journey from here – to Itacaré, Porto Seguro, or Lagoa Encantada. But one thing is certain: Ilhéus was just the beginning.
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